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Among the mists of Langa

II fuoco del camino crepita piano men­tre all'orizzonte il sole incendia, con i suoi bagliori fantastici, i boschi di castagni. La pianura lentamente si oscura, soffusa da una nebbia azzurrina, e la notte scende dai profondi calanchi.

Nella sua bella casa sulle colline di Cortemilia, nell'Alta Langa, lo scrittore Renzo Barbieri mostra il volumi­noso manoscritto del libro che ha appena terminato di scrivere. "Per il mio ultimo ro­manzo ho tratto ispirazione da questa terra piena di contraddizioni, in cui la memoria del passato e gli stereotipi del gramo vivere contadino si intrecciano con la prelibatezza della cucina d'antan e con una speranza, confusa, ma vitale, per il futuro".

Comincia con questa conversazione l'itinerario goloso nell'Alta Langa: 43 municipalities are often forgotten by those who work in the "low" Lange, the best known, with Sunrise Capital. L n territory that may seem at times wild, enchanting definitely dispenser of myths, like the fountain of all literary Scorrone, Castino of the mountain, right in front of the house of Barbieri. "I spent the Scarrone (so called Pavese), halfway to Castino - some house, nothing more - but at Scarrone is the water fountain dispenser --sin But never knew why - and came from Alba or Asti for drinking in a group. What is surprising hotel has no day, never thought of us in the Hotel-pe nombre of those huge trees that overhang the clearing. "

mushrooms and ovules in combination with tuna pate

The fountain still exists, although it is a modern concrete structure that has changed the original character-ri. It is located on the left the township of Scorrone. The restaurant next to the source has now been built, thankfully, as called for by Pavese, is a quiet country inn that offers menu still typical Langhe (Trattoria Scorrone, via Scorrone 64, Phone 0141/88 f 17, closed on Tuesday evening and Wednesday). manage and Bruna Gallo, who does not fail to comply with the customary opening a tutto antipasto, proseguendo poi con i buoni tajarin e gli immancabili ravioli al plin (cioè al pizzicotto, perché con questo gesto tradizionalmente se ne fermano le estremità); secondo la disponi­bilità ci sono sempre cacciagione, funghi e tartufi.

Per arrivare a Castine ("... è un paese sempre battuto da un vento frizzan­te e di là si vedono fiumi lontani, piccini, nei vapori. Verso sera specialmente, pare di essere in cielo"\ scrive Pavese nel suo "Ciau Masino"), centro di intensa vita religiosa nel Medioevo tanto da meritare menzione in diverse bolle papali, bisogna risalire da un paio di chilometri.

Vale la pena di recarsi al monastero del XV seco­lo, di fronte alla chiesa Parish, the most important of the three that once belonged to the municipality. It is also worth a detour "emotional" visit to the farm Pavaglio-ne, in the district of San Bovo, chosen by Fenoglio ambientarivi for his most famous novel, "The Malora.

Before taking the curvy descent toward Cortemilia, once the most powerful and ancient town in the Langhe, you had better stop for a stop to the delicious food "Fly" (Via Nazionale 6, Phone 0173/84045). Almost hidden in loaves of bread and boxes of dried pasta, this is where you will find the delicious ravioli al plin that Roselda and Piero produce daily in their lab, pulling the dough strictly hand.





an expanse of vineyards

The recipe is coded by her mother Josephine, which includes ingredients with pork, veal and seasonal vegetables. Cortemilia reached, which as illustrated by the Piedmontese dialect Curt Miia-named "Emilio's court" (Scauro), Roman consul who fought the ancient peoples of the Ligurian Stazielli Statella, the experience of "go to langa" becomes more intriguing . The views of the valley, beyond the vagaries of the river Uzzone expresses landscapes really exciting. The town was the crux of one of the most important "ways of salt, "by merchants who traveled from Liguria went up the valleys, up, up to Turin to swap salt, anchovies and fish with wine and cheese, and today reveals an unexpected wealth of ideas to be explored.

celebrated "Queen of the Langhe" and more recently crowned "Capital of hazelnut, the designation of origin" round and kind "which is dedicated a whole week of celebration in late August, was once a structure over five defensive fortifications.

Of all that remains is a section of wall and a tower overlooking flayed end e domina i due borghi divisi dal Bormida: San Michele, sulla riva sinistra del fiume, e San Panta-leo. Migliore sorte è fortunatamente tocca­ta alla chiesa della Madonna della Pieve, costruzione a un'unica navata e abside se­micircolare, originaria dell'XI secolo, che tradizione vuole ospitasse S. Francesco d'Assisi nel suo viaggio in Francia e recen­temente restaurata per riportare nella giu­sta luce le decorazioni di gusto barocco.

i formaggi della zona

Anche dal punto di vista enogastronomico Cortemilia offre numerosi spunti di inte­resse. Un percorso ideale può cominciare dall'"Enoteca Rossello", che, arrivando da Castino, si incontra on the left before going down the straight that leads to the bridge over Bormida (road Castino, telephone 0173/81349, 8 to 12 and from 14 to 18). In addition to the wines of the Langhe (Roero Arneis, Favorita, Dolcetto, Barbera, Grignolino, Nebbiolo, Barbaresco and the "king" Barolo), inside it houses a food corner where you can choose from various specialties. Just to name a few: homemade cakes hazelnut deliciousness in a jar (tomini mushrooms and truffle oil, bitch grape mustard, anchovies and butter with truffles), sausages (traditional, oil, Barolo and the inevitable truffle).
The presence of the white truffle

It is no accident that the truffle is so present. The Alta Langa, such as Alba and white - say with a bit of parochial pride, the "truffle hunter" altolan-Garoli - most fragrant of the latter, u-na is a constant of the traditional cuisine in the fall. And not just this one. In his family distillery, Sergio Castelli (Corso Einaudi 55, Phone 0173/81093) even uses it to infuse flavor u-na small batch of grappa, which produces mainly for the use of German and Swiss tourists. "He has a very intense aroma and the sale price" - he admits - is understandably high. "

From Castles can be found, however, even the most traditional grappa, from whites & Nai (white and black, marc by black white Arneis and Dolcetto) to brand (from grapes of the best vintages of Barolo, 55 °), without forgetting the single variety, including a - unavailable - Pelaverga, dry and pleasantly scented. The brandy Castles can also enjoy the comfort, after lunch, the best restaurant in Cortemilia, the "San Carlo" (Alpine Course Divisions 41, 0173/81546 phone, closed on Mondays), which is also a comfortable three-star hotel . Carlo Zarri, helped in the hall by his wife Paola, and his sister, Consuelo, in the kitchen, offering creative dishes revisited Langhe, served with care and accompanied vintage wines from the most skilled producers in Piedmont. This season, however, is perhaps worthwhile to rely on more traditional tasting menu that Zarri specially prepared in honor of the white truffle and where there are also pleasant surprises that introduce the discovery of a kitchen in danger of extinction. As the characteristics Jrizze, made with a dough made of pig liver and calf brains, fried in oil





a farm in San Bovo